The dark side of donating clothes to charity

The next time you clean out your closet and happily donate old clothes to charity, you might want to pause for a moment. A novel study, published in the journal Nature Cities, has brought to light some shocking revelations about the destiny of our donated garments.

Unfortunate fate of donated clothes

Researchers have been diligently following the trail of donated clothes and textiles across several western cities.

The findings are quite disturbing. In most cities, spanning from Melbourne to Manchester, donated textiles are either exported or dumped as waste.

It’s alarming to consider that the weight of global textile waste each year is 92 million tonnes, a number that could see a scary doubling by 2030.

Crucial role of charity shops

Charity shops do an admirable job of handling a large volume of used and donated clothes. However, they face a complex predicament.

Quite a few of the donations they receive are of poor quality, reducing the financial benefit of managing them locally. So, how do these charities adapt? They trade valuable items and discard or export the remainder.

An interesting case in point is Melbourne, where charities export high-quality, often vintage, second-hand clothes to Europe. This results in the city’s independent resale businesses importing similar clothing back from Europe or the United States.

Challenges of high volume and low quality

Over the past 15 to 20 years, charities and collectors have reported a concerning decrease in the quality of the garments they receive, which negatively impacts their resale potential.

According to Dr. Yassie Samie of RMIT University in Melbourne, local governments and charities need a stronger and more efficient collaboration to manage textile waste.

“We’re used to charities doing the heavy lifting, but they’ve been unable to fully handle the volume of donated clothes for a long time now,” said Dr. Samie.

“Charities are driven by social welfare values and need to raise funds for their programs. However, their operations are ill-equipped to deal with the volume of used textiles that need to be reused and recycled.”

Local government cooperation is essential in this regard, and Samie suggests that charities explore other business models, such as swapping and repair centers.

Export of donated clothes

Overconsumption and oversupply are the main culprits behind the cities’ textile waste crisis. These lead to the export of between 33% (Australia) and 97% (Norway) of donated clothes.

It’s important to note that most local governments in the cities studied do not get involved in textile waste beyond providing public spaces and licenses for charity bins and commercial resellers.

In fact, in cities like Melbourne, local governments send discarded textiles directly to landfill, instead of diverting them to recycling or reuse facilities, or other employing other, local alternatives.

Need for systemic change

Dr. Samie noted that systemic change is vital to address the issue of textile waste. She emphasizes the importance of promoting local alternatives to fast fashion, including reselling, swapping, and repairing.

“Sustainable fashion initiatives, like second-hand retailers, struggle to compete with fashion brands’ big marketing budgets and convenient locations,” said Dr. Samie.

“Fast fashion alternatives exist but they are under-promoted, despite their potential to significantly reduce cities’ textile waste.”

Hidden cost of donated clothes

The exportation of donated clothes presents another layer of complexity in the textile waste conundrum.

While sending garments abroad might appear as a practical solution for local waste management challenges, it offloads the environmental and social costs onto less-regulated markets.

These exported textiles often end up in countries with weak waste management infrastructures, where they can accumulate in landfills, contributing to pollution and resource strain.

Moreover, the influx of cheap, second-hand clothing can undermine local textile industries, impacting the livelihoods of workers who depend on traditional garment production.

Relying on exports as an easy fix not only perpetuates global inequalities but also stalls the necessary advancements in sustainable local solutions.

Approaches to mitigating waste

Transformative approaches to addressing textile waste are beginning to emerge, albeit at varying scales of impact.

Some forward-thinking cities and organizations have started to implement circular economy strategies, focusing on keeping resources in use for as long as possible through upcycling, recycling, and the utilization of biodegradable materials.

Collaborations between fashion brands, municipalities, and environmental organizations have led to the establishment of community repair cafes and textile recycling hubs. These initiatives not only reduce waste but also educate the public on the value of sustainable practices.

A multi-faceted approach incorporating education, policy change, and grassroots involvement is critical for creating lasting change. By promoting a culture of sustainability, cities can turn the tide on textile waste and lead the way towards a more environmentally responsible future.

Fashion advertising ban

The study’s authors propose a ban on fashion advertising in cities to make room for promoting more sustainable alternatives to donating clothes.

Recently, France introduced a ban on advertising ultra-fast fashion. Dr. Samie supports such regulations and would like to collaborate with local governments to find better uses for discarded textiles.

Ultimately, the study sheds light on the urgent need for smarter methods of managing textile waste.

As the global textile waste burden continues to grow, each one of us must take responsibility for our shopping habits and make more sustainable choices.

The study is published in the journal Nature Cities.

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