Octopus pigments boost the power of sunscreen protection

When Northeastern graduate Camille Martin and associate professor Leila Deravi co-founded Seaspire, a skincare ingredients company inspired by pigments in octopus and squid, they aimed to create products that benefit both the skin and the environment. Recent research indicates they are succeeding.

Enhancing sunscreen protection with cephalopods

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science has revealed that Xanthochrome, a synthesized molecule found in cephalopods such as squid, octopus, and cuttlefish, enhances sunscreen protection when combined with zinc oxide without harming coral reefs. 

Deravi, Seaspire’s scientific adviser, noted that these safety findings are crucial because there are a lot of toxicities involved with (traditional) UV filters in sunscreens.

“Some of the chemical UV-filters in particular are known to create reactive oxygen species that are not only bad for the environment but can also seep into our skin and cause systemic toxicities,” said Deravi.

Inspiration for natural skincare ingredients 

The industry is enthusiastic about environmentally friendly innovations, added Martin, who earned her PhD in chemistry from Northeastern University in 2019 and has served as Seaspire’s CEO since its inception. 

“Everything we do as a biotechnology company is centered around leveraging marine animals as a source of inspiration for the next generation of skincare ingredients,” explained Martin.

The goal of Seaspire is to make Xanthochrome accessible to skincare product manufacturers and distributors along the supply chain, ultimately incorporating it into a variety of products, including sunscreens, anti-aging applications, and functional color cosmetics. 

“We are just wrapping up the research and development on it now and actively looking for partnerships to bring this to market,” Deravi said.

Chemical compounds for sunscreen protection 

Xanthochrome, produced as a brown, textured powder, possesses potent antioxidant and skin restorative properties while providing light scattering qualities that protect against photoaging. 

It is the trade name for a chemically synthesized version of xanthommatin, a molecule found in the skin of cephalopods and insects. 

“The secret to the cephalopods’ unique coloration is derived from its multifunctional chemical compounds, which we identified in our lab at Northeastern,” Deravi explained.

Antioxidant properties of cephalopod skin 

Martin’s Ph.D. work was the first to demonstrate that these small molecules inside cephalopod skin, contributing to the animal’s camouflage, also have significant antioxidant properties. 

“They’re free radical scavengers, which are very important for skin health and skin barrier function,” Deravi said. Additionally, these molecules exhibit crucial optical properties that protect against sunlight exposure, functioning similarly to UV filters in sunscreens.

“We didn’t create a new molecule. We were able to isolate and characterize the properties of the biomolecules found within cephalopods, engineer a bio-identical version of the naturally occurring material, and position Xanthochrome as a new active ingredient that provides a wide range of skincare benefits,” Martin explained. This innovation offers a single molecule with multiple functions.

Boosting the power of zinc oxide 

Unlike parabens often found in sunscreens, previous research showed that Xanthochrome is not an endocrine disruptor. The latest study indicates that it boosts the ultraviolet protection of zinc oxide, which the U.S. Food and Drug Administration deems a safe and effective sunscreen ingredient, by 28% and enhances visible light blocking potential by 45%. 

Moreover, Xanthochrome did not adversely affect coral cuttings even at concentrations five times higher than those used in typical formulations.

Commitment to sustainable solutions

Martin and Deravi hope that skincare manufacturers will recognize Xanthochrome as a next-generation ingredient akin to retinoids, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. 

“We’re creating products that can really be applied and adopted across a wide range of users,” Martin said. “We are creating something that is not only safe for all people but also the environment.”

Deravi emphasized the importance of proving the safety of new raw materials for both humans and the ocean, where products eventually end up.

Seaspire’s mission reflects a commitment to innovative, sustainable solutions in skincare, drawing inspiration from the natural world to address modern challenges in environmental and personal health. As they advance towards market readiness, their work underscores the potential for marine-inspired biotechnology to revolutionize skincare.

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